The hike of all hikes

As winter came to an end this year I began planning all of the hikes I'd do this summer. There were several I had missed last year and I was determined to check them all out. Unfortunately, summer only showed up for all of one week I think this year. OK, 10 days at the most and instead of setting out to accomplish my hiking goals I set out for long nights at the bar, crocheting sessions on the couch, and lazy weekends of doing nothing. I started getting depressed. Thankfully, my good friend, Storme, was visiting from New Zealand for the summer and wanted to see Alaska for all it's worth, rain or shine. It was time to change my boring old tune and see Valdez up close and personal. So, we headed out. We did a nice hike to the Valdez glacier. The trail stops out on a point on the lake where you can easily see the glacier and get some pretty nice pictures. We wanted to get closer though so we hiked along the shore line to get right up to it. The shoreline was pretty difficult to navigate and I ended up standing in ankle deep water more than once. We made it to a big rocky mound that was a stone's throw away from the glacier. The photographs began. I knelt down once to get a better shot of the guys and my foot slid back pretty far, enough to spread the gravel off the "rocky mound" we were standing on to reveal we weren't a stone's throw away from the glacier after all. We were actually standing on it, right atop a huge chunk of ice. Sweet!
This hike got me pumped up for our next adventure; The Shoup Bay trail.
I had heard of folks talking up this trail for the past year however I never met someone who had actually done it, start to finish so we didn't know exactly what we were in for. My friend,Tom,rented a cabin that was just across the bay from the end of the trail. He would go there by boat and pick us up after our long walk. It was a 10 mile hike that started out pretty flat in thick vegetation but with a wide nicely cleared path which eventually opened up to a flat, clear, marsh land that butted up against the Prince William Sound. From there we traveled on relatively flat ground on simple bridges and wood planked walk ways to help us through the really marshy wet areas. How nice. Just a lovely....simple....easy hike.....Ha! Right, then the real hike began...
So'd ya hear the one about two Poles, one New Zealander, and two Americans that headed into the rain forest? That was our group and the story went kind of like this:
After the marsh land we headed back into the rain forest surrounded by the most beautiful plants and trees. Wild flowers and berries were peaking out of thick green foliage almost every step of the way. When we reached a giant waterfall and accompanying bridge I remember looking around in utter amazement. It reminded me of the swampy forests of Louisiana with the stringy moss hanging from every limb. This moss land was home to many creatures. We saw bear poop around every corner and bugs were thick when the air was still. Mosquitoes laughed at my all-natural hippy bug spray and relentlessly attacked. I broke down at one point and drenched my face and hands in the hard stuff, deet and all. And we pressed on. At times the trail was so muddy there was no where to step except right in the middle of it, sinking down past my ankles. The previous easy, meandering well maintained trail quickly changed to slick rocky terrain on which I fell at least 7 times. We were heading up an down and up up up up again, taking switchbacks and careful steps across waterfalls all the while noticing a quickly shrinking path ahead of us. Our once wide, well groomed path shrank down to less than shoulder width at some points. I remember thinking of bears and if we should meet one. The narrow path would yield little escape. I didn't let my mind go there for long. I had no choice but to stay focused or give up and choose to make my home in that rainy forest, obviously I chose the first option. We stopped for lunch and a break but it lasted only long enough to scarf down our pre-made sandwiches and chug some water. The mosquitoes at that point must have been on lunch break too. We had to get out of there but we didn't leave with out a keep-it-going toast. My husband, of course, packed along a tiny flask of whiskey. Cheers and a "cheese" for the photos and we were off again. At this point the trail became really steep and rocky and I have to admit I struggled. Storme was behind me most of the way, patiently dealing with my frequent quick breaks for an extra gasp of air. It was pretty difficult for me but I kept at it. As I began to feel the weakest, as if I didn't think I could take another single upward step the terrain flattened and opened up to a nice little flower covered meadow. We had made it up the most difficult portion of the hike. Scheww! At this point we were probably 5 hours into the hike. We estimated only having about an hour left. We were going to make it. That last leg of the trip proved to be the most beautiful. We reached a point where we could see the cabin and the Shoup glacier nestled behind it. It was an incredible site. As we neared the end of the trail, the Polish hiking team as we cleverly labeled them suggested we go off trail on a "short cut" to get to a nice spot where Tom would pick us up in the boat. Okay.....
There we went climbing over a labyrinth of trees, hoisting dogs up and under, cursing the Poles for leading us into this mess. It was difficult but we had no choice but to stick with the off road plan since my body gave up on hiking upward over and hour ago. There wasn't a chance of turning around. At one point I got wedged in between two trees held back by my backpack that was stuck under the trunk of one tree, my right leg wrapped around another. I started to slide. Again, my fear of an upward trek pulled me through. I slithered and clawed my way out of my restraint and suddenly I could see the light at the end of the twisted tree tunnel. There was water. A few moments later, I flopped down on a pointed wet rock with the most awesome feeling of accomplishment soaring through my body. It took us 6 1/2 hours to make one of the best hikes of our lives. Our rescue team arrived shortly to pick us up and taxi us to the party going on at the McAllister Creek cabin. Turns out that self made trek was the best idea of the trip. It landed us in the perfect location for the boat to pick us up. We were safe, with food, fire, and a cozy cabin to celebrate in. What an accomplishment. What an adventure. Rain...shmain....there's lots of livin' no matter the mood of sweet Mother Nature. Go on...Get ya some!








RESCUED!!!

Freedom Defined: A Miller Sisters Marathon

When I moved to Valdez last summer I volunteered to help organize the 2010 City of Valdez 4th of July Festival. I had high hopes for this event as I love any reason to throw a party. I asked my good friends to play for the main show on the 4th. These girls for real. There's so much talent wrapped up in an acoustic guitar and mandolin they don't even need a full band. Get their band out there though and it is on, party people. I knew with our limited budget, we wouldn't be able to offer them anything close to their worth but those girls love Alaska and were thrilled with having a reason to return to the The Last Frontier. It wasn't an easy trek as only weeks before their departure tragedy hit the little valley where we all met back in 2004. Two friends lives were lost and it stopped everyone in their tracks. The girls and their families were especially close to Bryan Silker. Mourning that loss and getting ready for the trip proved more than difficult. But they pressed on. Chad and Candice brought along baby Mary Jane. What a treat this was for Brian and I. It had been 10 months since we last saw her. What an adorable little lady she's becoming. What a great experience for her to see Alaska! Karee and Jason were celebrating their much over due honeymoon so they left their babes at home. I borrowed an RV for their honeymoon suite and the rest of us holed up in the #24 trailer. I was a bit worried if they'd be OK with the simple accommodations but why I felt that way I'll never know. These people are real. They are down to earth and completely thrilled with the opportunity to visit Alaska again. My friend Lindy and I fixed up their rooms with pretty flowers, toys for the baby, pictures of their families and a goody bag. I wanted them to really feel welcome. I'm sure they loved that. I'm certain they appreciated it but the reality is, this special little place will make anyone feel welcome, with little to no effort at all. And so the Miller Sister Marathon began...
They rolled in early one morning after an all night drive from Anchorage. I quickly showed them around and ran out the door to go to work. I was worried they might not find enough to do. Right. They took off on a 24 hour trek to visit Chitina and McCarthy, AK, with glacier viewing in between. They enjoyed kayaking at the Valdez glacier and we all barbecued at the beach with fresh caught Copper River red salmon and a bon fire. And then it was show time. Their first gig was scheduled at the only bar in town that ever really hosts live music. It's a little rough, AK style, but has the potential of packing a ton of people. I remember being so nervous that entire day that no one would show up. I mean, I know these girls are fabulous but no one in Valdez had heard of them before. What if no one came out? Did I promote it enough? Silly me. Unfortunately, Valdez has little to no night life. The posters and word of mouth alone packed that smokey dive bar and the girls showed up ready to rock.
They got on stage at 10:00 and didn't take a break until 2AM. That break was short lived as they were quickly back on stage belting out all types of music from original tunes to Janis Joplin to Johnny Cash to Four Non-Blondes. The crowd was in heaven. We left there around 4 AM with pockets full of cash for the girls and energy that could have kept us up for days. Wait...I think that energy did keep us up for days....The next night was a smaller gig but just as much fun. The sound in the smaller venue seemed a bit more clear, more full, which is funny because the girls did their own sound that night. We danced and sang until the wee hours (again) with the crowd begging for more. "We've got to get these girls back to Valdez!" "We need to book a huge show at the Civic Center with their whole band!" "Will they come back for our Christmas party?" And the compliments went on and on. The next day was the 4th of July Festival. The rain and grey skies were a little disappointing but the energy of the town was high. It was a nice family atmosphere which we needed after our two previous wild nights but was equally just as fun. After my friends helped me organize the parade we had an entire day to just do whatever felt intriguing. For the boys that meant doing next to nothing. For the girls that meant shopping and gabbing. Giggle fits were common with us that day, I'm sure all influenced by sleep deprivation. Whatever the reason is was simple and carefree fun. When the Miller gals were ready,dressed in blue Jessica McClintock gowns with red white and blue boas and tall Uncle Sam hats, the final show began. It was another fabulous performance ending in fireworks and a bon fire. We topped the evening off back at the hotel bar when the Miller Sisters were asked to sing one more time for the packed tavern. They complied, atop the bar even, and once again left the crowd asking for more. As if this day weren't fabulous enough, as we stood outside in the rain debating our next move the guys from hit TV show, The Deadliest Catch, casually walked around the corner. My husband instantly recognized them. The group photographs began. Moments later another fellow offered to run down to his boat and grab a fresh bag of shrimp for all of us to try. Now, is that Alaskan or what? We stood out there and drank a few beers while the Miller Girls sang one last tune for this tiny late night crowd. Absolutely perfect. I remember Candice saying that Alaska inspires thinking and reflection and man, have we had reason to think lately. This trip for them and the experience for us was bit therapeutic in a sense. It was the natural upswing of the pendulum after the deep down swing of loss, beautiful yet humbling. We laughed and cried and reminisced. It was a reminder of what matters, the precious simplicities of life. As the Indigo Girls and the Miller Sisters sing: " The best thing you've ever done for me is to help me take my life less seriously, it's only life after all...."
As our friends packed their bags the next day and prepared for the long journey home I grew sad about it all coming to an end. I mean, yes, I needed to sleep for a good 3 days to fully recover, but having a taste of home in a place so far from where we originally met was just the best Independence Day treat. This experience defines freedom for me. Old friends reuniting in a magical place greeted by people who are so appreciative and full of life means we must being doing something right. Or maybe we are just get it right in picking quality friends and quality places to call home. Whatever it is, I love it. Y'all come back now, ya hear?